canister filter layers.

[somraj]

Hi Guys,
Can any one tell me what should be the sequence of layers from bottom to top for a canister filter.
Should I be using activated carbon as one of the media for filtration?
Please guide me ..
Thanks
Somraj

[jack]

Bottom most layer should be carbon and then the water passes through bio media and back to tank.... Still let the experts give you more detailed answer

[somraj]

I am having,activated carbon, ceramic balls, filter wool.Now tell me the sequence..

[jack]

If its me i ll go for filterwool on the top, ceramic balls in middle and carbon at the bottom.

[somraj]

Hi Jack,some people are telling that activated carbon will absorb all the fert from the water is it true, while some are telling that activated carbon are needed to keep the water clean and free from harmful substances.
Please advice..

[jack]

There are two thaughts, i personally believe to use the carbon when you feel the water is dirty and smelling, when you use some medication and to remove medicines.... Else it is not mandatory to use the carbon regularly.

[apuda2010]

Somraj...

The principle of canister filtration is to grow a bacteria colony inside the filter to promote biological filtration. Therefore , the more media you provide for these bacteria colonies to grow , the better.

Activated carbon is of practically little use in a canister. There are two reasons for this :

1) A filter should not alter water chemistry. Activated carbon works on the principle of adsorption and is generally used to `suck' in dissolved gases in liquids. Thus , the addition of carbon alters the water chemistry.
2) Activated carbon loses its capacity to adsorb very fast...in 3 weeks it will be rendered useless. There is no way a hobbyist can re-charge activated carbon at home.

Filterwool/polishing pads etc pose a different problem. By their nature, they are capable of filtering grime and large particles. Initially , the water will become crystal clear , but within a week or two the flow rate will reduce significantly , which is not good for the overall setup.

In my view , put bio balls at the bottom , ceramic media in the middle , and a large coarse nylon pad on top. The coarse pad will filter large particles but will not clog the filter. If your filter can add one more stage , don't even think twice - add some more ceramic media.

Remember the final objective is to have the canister grow a beneficial colony of bacteria and open/service the filter as little as possible except for cleaning dirt and debris.

[Abhi]

Somraj...

The principle of canister filtration is to grow a bacteria colony inside the filter to promote biological filtration. Therefore , the more media you provide for these bacteria colonies to grow , the better.

Activated carbon is of practically little use in a canister. There are two reasons for this :

1) A filter should not alter water chemistry. Activated carbon works on the principle of adsorption and is generally used to `suck' in dissolved gases in liquids. Thus , the addition of carbon alters the water chemistry.
2) Activated carbon loses its capacity to adsorb very fast...in 3 weeks it will be rendered useless. There is no way a hobbyist can re-charge activated carbon at home.

Filterwool/polishing pads etc pose a different problem. By their nature, they are capable of filtering grime and large particles. Initially , the water will become crystal clear , but within a week or two the flow rate will reduce significantly , which is not good for the overall setup.

In my view , put bio balls at the bottom , ceramic media in the middle , and a large coarse nylon pad on top. The coarse pad will filter large particles but will not clog the filter. If your filter can add one more stage , don't even think twice - add some more ceramic media.

Remember the final objective is to have the canister grow a beneficial colony of bacteria and open/service the filter as little as possible except for cleaning dirt and debris.

But the sequnce would change if the flow of water from inlet is from bottom to up.

[prajjwal]

Almost all canister's flow from bottom to top

[Romi]

Somraj...

The principle of canister filtration is to grow a bacteria colony inside the filter to promote biological filtration. Therefore , the more media you provide for these bacteria colonies to grow , the better.

Activated carbon is of practically little use in a canister. There are two reasons for this :

1) A filter should not alter water chemistry. Activated carbon works on the principle of adsorption and is generally used to `suck' in dissolved gases in liquids. Thus , the addition of carbon alters the water chemistry.
2) Activated carbon loses its capacity to adsorb very fast...in 3 weeks it will be rendered useless. There is no way a hobbyist can re-charge activated carbon at home.

Filterwool/polishing pads etc pose a different problem. By their nature, they are capable of filtering grime and large particles. Initially , the water will become crystal clear , but within a week or two the flow rate will reduce significantly , which is not good for the overall setup.

In my view , put bio balls at the bottom , ceramic media in the middle , and a large coarse nylon pad on top. The coarse pad will filter large particles but will not clog the filter. If your filter can add one more stage , don't even think twice - add some more ceramic media.

Remember the final objective is to have the canister grow a beneficial colony of bacteria and open/service the filter as little as possible except for cleaning dirt and debris.

very true...